Northern Ireland Offers Brilliant Combination Of Beauty And History
(Editor’s Note: This is the second of two parts. For Part 1, see The Golden Times, August 2011 or see the article on this website.)
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By Ann Augunas
Contributing Writer
Leaving Belfast was bittersweet. In just three days we had seen and done a lot but so much more was left unseen. We had visited the historic Titanic Quarter, some of the city’s fine Museums, its grand Victorian architecture, took a walk about town, joined crowds at a bustling, outdoor-market held on the grounds of City Hall, and saw the murals, messages and signatures on “the Wall” in the Shankill area of Belfast.
However, an important element of travel I hadn’t room to include in my last piece was dining and I have to say that we found that whole scene terrific, from elegant dining rooms to neighborhood favorites. It began with lunch at the Radisson Blu, our hotel accommodations in Belfast. Sleek, contemporary, affordable, and close to town, the Radisson Blu offers a full Irish breakfast daily, and lunch, which we took advantage of as soon as we arrived. It was more than I expected as everything we ordered was locally sourced, very fresh and nicely plated. An impressive beginning!
During our stay we held to sampling fresh seafood and small plates at some popular eateries around town such as the Mourne Seafood Bar and Nick’s for awesome cheese plates. This provided us with a sort of dine-around experience and, at the same time, helped us not overdo before dinner. We also visited the iconic Sawer’s grocery store, famous for foodstuffs from around the world as well as those locally produced. Featured are exotic items of game and fish, along with cured meats, cheeses, olives and so on, treats for any discerning palate, and they offer nibbles as you shop. Tourists will love it!
As for upscale dining, the award-winning, Rayanne House, an elegant 10-bedroom guesthouse and private dining property where we enjoyed a replication of the last dinner on the Titanic served to first-class passengers, and Beatrice Kennedy’s fine restaurant, were spot on. Chefs in both places were world-class and the meals spectacular. Finally, any trip to Ireland must include a pub visit. At the popular John Hewitt Pub downtown I chanced to meet two gregarious Irishmen who insisted I share sips of Guinness from their own personal glasses. I did, of course, while wishing we could stay longer. It was an Irish experience of which I had dreamed. However, and continuing right along....
Bright sunshine ushered in day four. A good omen! Time to bid farewell to Belfast and head north. We traveled along the gorgeous Causeway Coastal Route, considered one of the top five coastal routes in the world, losing ourselves in the heady scenery that revealed itself around each bend, rugged cliffs, beautiful beaches, even the coastline of Scotland etched along the horizon, all while nurturing feelings of excitement as to what else might lay ahead of us.
Our final destination northward was to take us to several of the small Irish towns along the coast and further inland, such as the little seaside town of Carrickfergus or the pretty towns of Glenarm and Ballymena; to visit historic sites, many with a U.S. connection; to enjoy a tour (and tasting!) of the famous Bushmills Distillery in County Antrim; to see one of the many natural wonders of the world that one finds all over Ireland, the amazing Giant’s Causeway, a UNESCO World Heritage site; and to daringly cross the swinging Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge as it stretches an 80-foot chasm above the sea.
Along the way we visited the ancestral homes of Andrew Jackson and Ulysses S. Grant, just two of the 14 American Presidents whose ancestors came from this Ulster area. In Carnlough I took a quick peek into the Londonderry Arms a boutique hotel, once owned by Winston Churchill’s grandmother and, briefly, by him. Next we spent time in Bellaghy Bawn (fort), a 17th century plantation castle, one of the best-preserved plantation sites in Ulster. It is worth a visit and if you like poetry you will get the chance to browse through some of the works of Nobel laureate Seamus Heaney born nearby.
A stop at Ireland’s oldest whiskey distillery, Old Bushmills (1608), led us through the production of this universally revered beverage and then a chance to taste several of the finished products; just “tastes” mind you! Only two miles from the Giant’s Causeway, Bushmills is a favorite stop for all travelers to Northern Ireland. Close by is the town of Ballymena, a great shopping and cultural district and home of my favorite actor, Liam Neeson. On the outskirts of Ballymena is the gorgeous Galgorm Hotel and Spa where we spent the night. Dinner here was another gastronomic highlight.
Our last night in Ireland was spent at the beautiful Belle Isle Estate in County Fermanagh. Situated on the northern tip of Upper Lough Erne, its 470-acres spread over eight islands. It’s an ideal and picturesque retreat for visitors seeking quiet and relaxation or for those interested in attending its famous Cookery School headed by Master Chef Liz Moore. Classes can range from a day to 4 weeks and are popular with both locals and visitors.
A range of self-catering accommodations is available including Belle Isle Castle itself, our choice. Dating from the early 17th century, the castle has been lovingly refurbished in keeping with its “original period grandeur.” Eight bedrooms, seven bathrooms, each with its own unique style, provide guests with comfort and convenience. Dining in the Great Hall is a “royal” affair, a step back in time, actually, one I won’t soon forget!
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For any and all information regarding the above properties, or a trip to Belfast or to Northern Ireland, contact the following www.tourismireland.com, www.discovernorthernireland.com or www.gotobelfast.com.
(Editor’s Note: This is the second of two parts. For Part 1, see The Golden Times, August 2011 or see the article on this website.)
*
By Ann Augunas
Contributing Writer
Leaving Belfast was bittersweet. In just three days we had seen and done a lot but so much more was left unseen. We had visited the historic Titanic Quarter, some of the city’s fine Museums, its grand Victorian architecture, took a walk about town, joined crowds at a bustling, outdoor-market held on the grounds of City Hall, and saw the murals, messages and signatures on “the Wall” in the Shankill area of Belfast.
However, an important element of travel I hadn’t room to include in my last piece was dining and I have to say that we found that whole scene terrific, from elegant dining rooms to neighborhood favorites. It began with lunch at the Radisson Blu, our hotel accommodations in Belfast. Sleek, contemporary, affordable, and close to town, the Radisson Blu offers a full Irish breakfast daily, and lunch, which we took advantage of as soon as we arrived. It was more than I expected as everything we ordered was locally sourced, very fresh and nicely plated. An impressive beginning!
During our stay we held to sampling fresh seafood and small plates at some popular eateries around town such as the Mourne Seafood Bar and Nick’s for awesome cheese plates. This provided us with a sort of dine-around experience and, at the same time, helped us not overdo before dinner. We also visited the iconic Sawer’s grocery store, famous for foodstuffs from around the world as well as those locally produced. Featured are exotic items of game and fish, along with cured meats, cheeses, olives and so on, treats for any discerning palate, and they offer nibbles as you shop. Tourists will love it!
As for upscale dining, the award-winning, Rayanne House, an elegant 10-bedroom guesthouse and private dining property where we enjoyed a replication of the last dinner on the Titanic served to first-class passengers, and Beatrice Kennedy’s fine restaurant, were spot on. Chefs in both places were world-class and the meals spectacular. Finally, any trip to Ireland must include a pub visit. At the popular John Hewitt Pub downtown I chanced to meet two gregarious Irishmen who insisted I share sips of Guinness from their own personal glasses. I did, of course, while wishing we could stay longer. It was an Irish experience of which I had dreamed. However, and continuing right along....
Bright sunshine ushered in day four. A good omen! Time to bid farewell to Belfast and head north. We traveled along the gorgeous Causeway Coastal Route, considered one of the top five coastal routes in the world, losing ourselves in the heady scenery that revealed itself around each bend, rugged cliffs, beautiful beaches, even the coastline of Scotland etched along the horizon, all while nurturing feelings of excitement as to what else might lay ahead of us.
Our final destination northward was to take us to several of the small Irish towns along the coast and further inland, such as the little seaside town of Carrickfergus or the pretty towns of Glenarm and Ballymena; to visit historic sites, many with a U.S. connection; to enjoy a tour (and tasting!) of the famous Bushmills Distillery in County Antrim; to see one of the many natural wonders of the world that one finds all over Ireland, the amazing Giant’s Causeway, a UNESCO World Heritage site; and to daringly cross the swinging Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge as it stretches an 80-foot chasm above the sea.
Along the way we visited the ancestral homes of Andrew Jackson and Ulysses S. Grant, just two of the 14 American Presidents whose ancestors came from this Ulster area. In Carnlough I took a quick peek into the Londonderry Arms a boutique hotel, once owned by Winston Churchill’s grandmother and, briefly, by him. Next we spent time in Bellaghy Bawn (fort), a 17th century plantation castle, one of the best-preserved plantation sites in Ulster. It is worth a visit and if you like poetry you will get the chance to browse through some of the works of Nobel laureate Seamus Heaney born nearby.
A stop at Ireland’s oldest whiskey distillery, Old Bushmills (1608), led us through the production of this universally revered beverage and then a chance to taste several of the finished products; just “tastes” mind you! Only two miles from the Giant’s Causeway, Bushmills is a favorite stop for all travelers to Northern Ireland. Close by is the town of Ballymena, a great shopping and cultural district and home of my favorite actor, Liam Neeson. On the outskirts of Ballymena is the gorgeous Galgorm Hotel and Spa where we spent the night. Dinner here was another gastronomic highlight.
Our last night in Ireland was spent at the beautiful Belle Isle Estate in County Fermanagh. Situated on the northern tip of Upper Lough Erne, its 470-acres spread over eight islands. It’s an ideal and picturesque retreat for visitors seeking quiet and relaxation or for those interested in attending its famous Cookery School headed by Master Chef Liz Moore. Classes can range from a day to 4 weeks and are popular with both locals and visitors.
A range of self-catering accommodations is available including Belle Isle Castle itself, our choice. Dating from the early 17th century, the castle has been lovingly refurbished in keeping with its “original period grandeur.” Eight bedrooms, seven bathrooms, each with its own unique style, provide guests with comfort and convenience. Dining in the Great Hall is a “royal” affair, a step back in time, actually, one I won’t soon forget!
*
For any and all information regarding the above properties, or a trip to Belfast or to Northern Ireland, contact the following www.tourismireland.com, www.discovernorthernireland.com or www.gotobelfast.com.
